Алёна Садовская

ПРОШУ ОБРАТИТЬ ВНИМАНИЕ на эту тему коллег, работающих с федеральными СМИ, особенно фотографов, и призываю их обязательно посетить это место до конца лета, это стоит того!

На выходных у меня была необычная поездка в Ингушетию. По приглашению Совета тейпов Республики Ингушетия я приняла участие в восхождении к башенному комплексу Маготе и храму Маго-Ерды, стоящему на самом краю пропасти (в прямом и переносном смысле!).

Это сооружения, построенные в горах на отдалении даже от самого дальнего башенного комплекса Салги (башни тейпа Салгхой). Доехать туда, естественно, невозможно, от Салги, перейдя горную речку, можно подняться только пешком. Вроде бы, расстояние не такое большое, чуть больше километра, но это дорога вверх — по крутому склону лесистой горы Загал-Дук. А сам храм и башенный комплекс были построены на узкой(!!), едва ли в 10 метров, горизонтальной полоске горы.

Поход был непростым, но сказать, что я впечатлена, — это не сказать ничего!! До сих пор не могу отойти.

Вообразите — на самой вершине горы, на узкой прямой полоске столетия назад люди, уходя от Чингисхана-Тамерлана, построили целый поселок — с башнями, жилыми помещениями, с коридорами, проходившими вдоль скал. Там же — храмы и могильники, расположенные прямо в горе. С обеих сторон — пропасти. Внизу — горные реки. Набрать водички к чаю превращалось, думаю, в мероприятие, равное 3 часам в фитнес-клубе, если объяснять в современных понятиях.

Я поражена — какие сильные люди должны были всё это построить и там жить! У меня нет слов! Никогда такого не видела. И теперь, посетив это место, я абсолютно убеждена, что храм Маго-Ерды и башенный поселок Маготе просто необходимо срочно укреплять! Потерять это место будет преступлением против всех нас!

А потерять его, похоже, легко. По свидетельствам, еще 5 лет назад у оборонительной башни Маготе была крыша — сейчас ее нет, разрушилась, а по всем стенам башни идут огромные трещины. Солнце печет, дождь поливает эту последнюю более-менее сохранившуюся башню (всего, по некоторым данным, их было девять) — кто знает, сколько она простоит?.. То же самое касается и храма Маго-Ерды, который, на первый взгляд, кажется достаточно крепким. Но по его стенам также идут трещины, а сбоку видно, как под фундаментом обвалилась часть скалы, и храм уже «одной ногой в пропасти»!

Важность этого комплекса ясна также из того, что в такое сложное и физически изнурительное путешествие (порядка 2 часов в одну сторону) отправились члены Совета тейпов, в том числе весьма пожилые и с определенными проблемами со здоровьем! Но важность проблемы не позволила им остаться в стороне, это было непросто, но поднялись! Говорят, большую роль сыграло то, что пошла и я)) Единственная женщина, и даже не горянка)) Это как в известном печальном опусе — «будучи лицом женского пола, провоцировала мужчин на действия самим своим присутствием»)) Если вы понимаете, о чем я…(( Но если я тоже сыграла свою роль в этом восхождении, то только рада — это стоило того!!

Да, и еще важное. Там же, по преданию, расположена могила главного героя Нартского эпоса (важнейшего эпоса для многих народов Кавказа) — Сеска Солса. Это его ингушское имя. В других языках он называется Сослан, Сосруко и т.д. Там возведена, по всей видимости, его гробница, она еще есть, а сверху был храм в его честь — Сеска-Солс-Ерды, но он уже разрушился. Он находился на самом краю горы!! Также там немало подземных могильников, которые могут представлять большой исторический интерес.

Причем интерес не только для ингушей, но и для всех остальных народов Северного Кавказа, да и для всей России, на территории которой расположен такой комплекс! Кто меня знает — я не большая любительница ни древностей, ни горных восхождений. Это мягко сказать)) Но!! Я невероятно рада, что побывала в этом месте, и надеюсь, что побываю еще!! И мне очень хочется, чтобы там побывало как можно больше людей (после, естественно, укрепительных мероприятий, прямо сейчас очень много людей там ни к чему), чтобы об этом месте узнали не только в России, но и в мире! Это не просто «ингушские башни», нет! Это потрясающей красоты и энергетики — очень интересное место, наводящее на самые неожиданные размышления! Может, только после посещения Маготе я, наконец, поняла, что значит «быть горцем»!!

Совет тейпов написал обращения уже во все профильные инстанции — в Джейрахско-Ассинский заповедник, в Комитет государственной охраны объектов культурного наследия Республики Ингушетия и, не получив ответов, в правительство Ингушетии. Это было два месяца назад. Ответов всё еще нет. Хотя, если увидеть всё это воочию, становится очевидно, что меры необходимо принимать НЕЗАМЕДЛИТЕЛЬНО!! Угроза обрушения высока!! Это наша история — ингушская, кавказская, российская! Нельзя потерять этот памятник!!

Я благодарю Совет тейпов за приглашение — невероятная поездка!! И присоединяюсь к их просьбе: «Спасите Маготе и Маго-Ерды»!! И очень приглашаю всех коллег — журналистов, фотографов, историков — обратить внимание на этот комплекс и посетить его. Будет непросто, но вы не пожалеете!))

На фото изображены храм Маго-ерды и башни Маготе, а также члены экспедиции.

от Admin

329 комментариев к «Восхождение к древнему храму Маго-ерды и башенному посёлку Маготе, расположенным в горной Ингушетии»
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